A collection of works by Angela Hill, a British photographer and one of the founders of IDEA, a London-based publisher and bookstore.
X-girl was a brand launched by Kim Gordon, a member of Sonic Youth, and her friend Daisy von Furth, a shop assistant at the Los Angeles-based street brand XLarge, who wanted to create clothes they themselves wanted to wear. The brand launched in the summer of 1997, opening its first store in Los Angeles that same year. They then held their first guerrilla street fashion show in SoHo, New York, a now infamous moment in the brand's history, where they hunted for women on the street and had them walk the runway as models.
This book is a record of the moments of this show, produced by Sofia Coppola and Spike Jonze, and launched by Kim Gordon and Daisy von Furth, as captured by the artist.
The artist was not called to photograph the show; she simply photographed it. The negatives of that day were never printed and moved from apartment to apartment and house to house with each relocation, so they would have been considered lost if anyone had looked for them. In 2024, those negatives were found. They were stuck to the bag they were in, damaged, and slightly faded in color. The artist might have forgotten the photographs, but she clearly remembered her time in New York.
Chloë Sevigny, an actress, fashion designer, and model who was a customer of X-girl at the time, and Michele Lockwood, an artist and surfer who also became the model for the brand's iconic face logo, also participated as models. The foreword to this book was written by Chloë Sevigny and perfectly captures the spirit of this project.
"It was supposed to be spring, but it was freezing. The X-girl anti-establishment fashion show, born of romance and a love for chaos, happened right there on the street.
Spike Jonze co-directed the Sonic Youth music video '100%,' and Sofia Coppola and I appeared in the 'Mildred Pierce' and 'Sugar Kane' videos. So, we were all orbiting the Sonic Youth universe. Sofia and Spike were getting serious at the time, so they planned this show as an opportunity to spend more time together. Daisy von Furth, X-girl's co-designer and mastermind, was like indie royalty. Her sister Julie was famous as the guitarist and vocalist for Pussy Galore and Free Kitten. Daisy styled all the rockers and created a new style that symbolized the indie aesthetic of the 1990s. The combination of Kim and Daisy's love for perfect A-line dresses, fitted ringer T-shirts, and their aesthetic eye for amazing graphics became a sure fire way to make girls happy. West Coast nepo babies met NY indie kids and declared that streetwear was for girls too. They weren't necessarily interested in a "fashion show," but the enthusiasm of the loving couple must have been contagious.
I worked as a 'fit model' for the brand, and Daisy let me crash on her couch since high school. That afternoon, all of us 'models' gathered at Daisy's loft on Crosby Street and got dressed in our looks. I don't remember who was wearing the children's barrettes, but I think it was Courtney Love. Sofia brought Ione Skye, Zoe Cassavetes, and Donovan Leitch, who were considered part of the 'Brat Pack,' a group of young actors. We New Yorkers were Kim Gordon's people, and we'd do anything. Pumpkin Wentzel, Luisa Reichenheim, Michele Lockwood, Jutta Koether, and other downtown personalities were cast as 'models.'
The show took place a few blocks away on a slightly raised section of the sidewalk on Mercer Street. It started just as Linda Evangelista, Kyle MacLachlan, Bill Cunningham, and the press were leaving after the latest Marc Jacobs collection show. We were so excited and dazzled. The exhilaration captured in Angela's photos is a combination of being part of something that rarely happens. We broke the rules of 'fashion' and the rules of the city without permission or approval, and we froze our butts off."
– Chloë Sevigny
Book Title: X-GIRL SHOW by Angela Hill
Pages: 80 pages
Size: 215 x 265 mm
Publisher: IDEA
Year of Publication: 2025
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